Vegan in Prague: Eaternia

Two contrasting piles of cabbage, a big chunk of mock meat, some folded potato pancakes, and a rich gravy

Eaternia has been around for a good few years now, but it’s only over the last year that I’ve become a regular. This is mostly because I now live a bit closer, and it makes me sad that I let the distance (which was never that much in a small city like Prague) deter me for so long. A lot of the long running vegan spots here are quite classy joints, and Eaternia feels like a throwback to the older punkier spots like Moment and Sabotage that have sadly closed down. It’s got a punk jukebox and loud music, and neon coloured merch. There are big communal tables which are usually occupied by groups of friends (alongside some smaller tables too – don’t worry, fellow introverts!). The menu is a zine. It’s fun and different.

Menu-wise, like many Czech places they do a daily lunchtime special of soup and main dish, alongside a permanent menu. The weekly menu is posted on their social media every weekend for the week ahead, so you can see what appeals. Alongside that, there’s also a monthly special to try as well. This means they’re experimenting with lots of different dishes and styles, which is fun to see. Not everything is a total success for me personally, but they’re being creative and I love that.

Two triangles of crispy deep fried cheese and a pile of chips in a takeaway box

The regular menu contains a mixture of traditional Czech dishes and north American junk food. I think their fried cheese is the best vegan version of this traditional dish in Prague. The cheese is always just the right texture – slightly gooey but still holding its shape. And it’s nicely fried too. The chips are also good and crispy.

A big plate of chips with lots of toppings

The poutine is another favourite of mine.

A hotdog with a serving of chips and pot of sauce. The hotdog is piled high with toppings

The hot dog is a bit much for me – the bread and sausage are delicious, but it’s piled high with a bit too much stuff. The flavour of the sausage gets a bit lost under all the cabbage and sauce. Additionally though, it’s just very messy to eat! Don’t order this in front of someone you’re trying to impress!

A burger with chips dusted with spices

We order a lot from the daily and monthly specials. One daily special I tried was the onion bhaji burger, which came with tandoori fries, mango chutney. The fries were probably the highlight for me, with a lovely dusting of spices. The bhaji was good too. This isn’t really an option anywhere else in Prague, so it was fun to try something different.

A big fried dough topped with tomato sauce, cheese, and olives

One of their Saturday specials was langos day in which they offered four different toppings. By the time we got there, just before 2pm, they had already sold out of all but one savoury option, which is good for their business but a shame for us. We got the Mediterranean langos, which was topped with a tasty feta, olives, and tomatoes. It was really flavoursome, but because the toppings were all cold, the bread did not retain its heat.

A tortilla topped with refried beans, tomato sauce, a mock fried egg and lime wedges

The huevos rancheros was another Saturday specials we enjoyed earlier this year. All the components were tasty, apart from the egg which was a bit lacklustre. More of an eggy flavour or texture would have really elevated it for us. But it was still a fun brunch that, again, is not available anywhere else.

A bowl of katsu curry with white rice, yellow sauce, and crispy coated tofu

February’s monthly special was a katsu curry, which was a bit of a letdown to be honest. The curry sauce didn’t properly capture the sweetness of a Japanese curry, and the tofu, while beautifully coated and cooked, was desperate for a bit of seasoning. It didn’t really feel like a Japanese dish to us, as katsu curry enthusiasts.

Three bao buns bursting with an array of fillings and sauces

The bao bun dish was more of a success, a glorious riot of colours and ingredients. The sauces and textures were fantastic, but the advertised tofu pork belly didn’t taste of much.

Two blocks of seaweed coated fried tofu, thick cut chips, peas, salad and tartare sauce

I’ve tried some fish and chips too. I approve of switching to “proper” chips rather than fries for this British classic! As always, the chips were excellent. The fish was blocks of tofu wrapped in seaweed before frying, which always gives a nice taste of the sea and a good crispy texture.

Two contrasting piles of cabbage, a big chunk of mock meat, some folded potato pancakes, and a rich gravy

One of the highlights of my year is the traditional St Martin’s Day feast of goose, veganised in several eateries across the city but done best here at Eaternia. The meat is tasty and has a great texture, particularly with its crispy skin. I was a bit concerned by the amount of cabbage at first glance but they were delicious and different – the white cabbage quite sharp and the red quite sweet. We enjoyed that the dish was served with potato pancakes rather than a heavy Czech dumpling – it made a big dish slightly lighter. All in all, this was one of my favourite dishes of the year.

Two toasted English muffins topped with tofu bacon, tofu egg, spinach, and yellow hollandaise sauce

On another occasion, we enjoyed a Saturday special of tofu eggs Benedict. This was delicious! The tofu bacon was nice and crisp, and the hollandaise sauce was flavoursome. There was even an egg yolk effect there too, which added more flavour. Personally I was not a fan of the pomegranate seeds on top, but Dr HH didn’t mind them.

Dr HH has also tried a corndog there, which he enjoyed. The sausage and sauces were good, but coating could have been crispier.

A big custardy cinnamon roll topped with chocolate

The dessert counter is the stuff of dreams. They specialise in these cinnamon snails that are about the size of my head. I couldn’t eat one for dessert, they’re a meal in themselves for me – making them good for breakfast. I do frequently forget this and order one for dessert though!

A slice of Oreo cheesecake

There’s quite often an Oreo cheesecake too, which is really tasty with a lovely cream cheese layer.

They almost always have the classic Czech mole cake in, which is an absolute mountain of cream. They also do lots of layer cakes in fun flavours that you don’t see in other spots in Prague. Their kremes are also good but again somewhat overkill – I don’t think I need icing on top of my cream and pastry. Maybe I need to expand my eating capacity though!

One downside to Eaternia is that they don’t have a coffee machine, so they don’t offer much in the way of hot drinks – just filter coffee and tea. We usually get our desserts to take away so we can enjoy them with a nice drink at home. On the plus side though, they do a fun and often changing array of homemade lemonades including strawberry basil, plum and cinnamon, and pumpkin spice, among many more. So there’s always something fun to drink on the cold side anyway.

I love all the creative dishes Eaternia puts on the menu – so many things that I just don’t see anywhere else. Even when I think a dish could have used an extra bit of seasoning, I’m never sorry to have taken a chance on a dish and there’s always something to love about it. It doesn’t seem to pop up that much in recommendations to tourists, presumably because it’s very casual, but in my opinion it’s far superior to many of the more popular spots, and well worth your time.

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Vegan in Berlin: Brammibal’s Donuts (Take Three)

A table with two hot drinks and two doughnuts

The donut scene in Prague has gone downhill over the years, with our one fully vegan spot closing down and the best vegan options also going. In Berlin, of course, it only seems to go from strength to strength with a new branch of Brammibal’s seeming to appear every time we visit! It is a fully vegan chain with a wide range of donuts, including a solid permanent offering, exciting monthly specials, and even occasional weekend specials. I have been known to look at their monthly specials on Instagram and wonder if it’s worth the 4 hour train journey to Berlin to try them. While I do manage to exhibit some restraint, I’m always desperate to try one (or several) when we go up to Berlin for a scheduled weekend break. On our last trip, we were frequent visitors to the Potsdamer Platz branch (lovely and spacious with lots of tables and plenty of light), though I believe all branches have the same donut options.

Two filled doughnuts, one covered in chocolate and the other with pistachios

The quality of the donuts is still excellent – still like eating a cloud! They are so fluffy and soft. The Boston cream remains my favourite, with a silky chocolate ganache and lovely sweet cream. Dr HH tried the pistachio on our last trip and also loved it, with its flavoured cream and crunchy texture on top.

A doughnut topped with brownie crumbs, drizzled caramel, and a big scoop of cream

He also enjoyed the brownie cheesecake, which had lovely brownie crumbs and a mound of flavoured cream cheese. He loved the smoothness of the cream and the chocolatey flavour.

A plain looking filled doughnut with a small blob of chocolate and chopped hazelnuts on top

We both loved the chocolate bombolini, which was filled with a delicious thick chocolate cream. Dr HH had some issues with the cream distribution, as he had one pocket and lots of plain donut, while I fared better with a more even distribution.

A takeaway box containing a ring doughnut covered in chocolate and sprinkles

Earlier in the year, I had also been pleased to find that a takeaway-only branch has opened up in Berlin’s main train station. During a quick transfer, I grabbed myself a chocolate sprinkles donut to sustain me for the rest of my journey. It was delicious fuel. Again, the chocolate coating was really tasty, and the sprinkles added some fun crunch.

I’m looking forward to more top notch donuts on my next visit!

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Vegan in Berlin: Froindlichst

A big plate with hash browns, baked beans, tofu omelette, sausages, bread, spinach, tomatoes, mushrooms, butter, and sauce

Here’s one of the other new spots from our summer trip to Berlin. There was a time when we always went for an all-you-can-eat buffet brunch in Berlin, but it’s been many years since we’ve done that. Possibly covid ended that trend, or maybe we just need to do more research. This time we went for a regular Sunday brunch and were very pleased!

A plate with three crispy hash browns, a pot of sauce, and a burger containing tofu omelette, avocado, and vegan bacon amongst other ingredients

Dr HH had the breakfast burger, which included some omelette, bacon (a little difficult to bite through), avocado, and smoked salmon. All the components were good and worked well together – but maybe they would work better on a plate rather than squashed into a bun. I suppose that’s what you get when you order something in burger format then! The hash browns on the side were also tasty.

A big plate with hash browns, baked beans, tofu omelette, sausages, bread, spinach, tomatoes, mushrooms, butter, and sauce

I had the full breakfast, and really enjoyed it. The sausages were a little softer than I would have liked, but tasted great. The mushrooms and tomatoes were nicely warmed through – I have no patience for the raw tomatoes you often get on a European breakfast. The beans were good but a bit saucier than I personally like – fortunately, they were contained in a little pot. The spinach was quite boring and doesn’t really belong on a breakfast plate for me. The hash browns were perfect, and the omelette was sensational, so thin and well flavoured. I could have eaten a lot more of that, and it makes me think I should experiment with omelettes a bit more at home. My only real complaint was the bread, which I would consider a very German bread and not really agreeable to my British palate – one of those dark, dry, seedy breads.

The restaurant was so busy I think they were turning people away, so definitely book a table if you plan to visit. I would definitely recommend this for a good brunch. I’d love to go back and try the pancakes!

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Vegan in Berlin: Iro Izakaya Vegan

Two Japanese starters

This summer we made our traditional pilgrimage to Berlin to enjoy the thriving vegan scene. With only a few days there, it’s the eternal dilemma of whether to stick to the same tried and tested hits of previous visits or give something new a try. We ended up with a balance of the two. I think every time we visit we see this big sign for vegan Japanese food, and this time we finally paid it a visit. Yes, it’s a fully vegan Japanese restaurant!

Three pieces of pale fried tofu

For starters, Dr HH and I shared two dishes. The mochi agedashi sounded like a really fun idea, combining the soft and tasty tofu agedashi with a fun mochi texture. Unfortunately though the texture was not actually enjoyable to us, too chewy. Still, it’s always fun to encounter something new, and I’m happy we got to try it.

Three pieces of deep fried balls of mock meat

We quite enjoyed the vegan karaage. It had a lovely crisp coating, but the meat was a little under seasoned for us and the texture inside could use more bite, it was a bit mushy. The coating did help with some texture though, and I enjoyed it more than Dr HH did.

A bowl of curry with rich sauce, large chunks of root vegetables, rice, salad, and mock meat in breadcrumbs

For his main course, Dr HH had the Japanese curry. The sauce was tasty and had those familiar notes of a classic Japanese curry, but it was quite a small portion. He liked the katsu chicken here a lot more than the chicken in the karaage, in terms of both flavour and texture.

A bowl of ramen

I am powerless to resist a big bowl of noodles and broth, so I had the tantan ramen, and really enjoyed it. The broth was rich and well spiced. The noodles were plentiful, making it a filling dish. And the toppings were quite good, particularly the soy meat.

Be warned that the only card payments they accept are from German bank cards. If you don’t have one, you need to pay with cash.

All in all, it was good but not perfect. It’s a nice restaurant, stylish and spacious with very fast service. Honestly, I’d be thrilled if this place existed in Prague, where vegan Japanese pickings are very slim indeed!

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Vegan in London: Club Mexicana Soho

Two trays each containing three tacos

Club Mexicana had been on my London wishlist for a long time before we finally managed to visit on out trip in June. There’s always too many eateries to squeeze into one weekend! We don’t get a lot of vegan Mexican options in Prague, so I was very excited to try this place and it certainly met my expectations.

The menu is fairly small, which is no bad thing in my opinion. We weren’t that hungry but ate as much as we could manage!

A tray of nachos with melted cheese and various seasonings

We shared the classic nachos to start, and they were really good. As a starter, this was plenty – we had considered getting the loaded nachos, but this was enough for us. There was a really pleasant mix of textures and the flavours were well balanced. The cheesy sauce was lovely.

A taco with some meaty strips and garnishes

We each got three tacos. Dr HH got the al pastor, which is described as like shawarma but he didn’t really pick up on those classic shawarma flavours. I was deterred from this one because it includes pineapple, but he said it was unobtrusive.

A taco with mince, cheese sauce, red onion, pickles, and more garnishes

I got the cheeseburger, which really did capture the essential flavours of a classic burger. The mock meat was really good.

A taco with strips of battered mushrooms and various garnishes

We both got the buffalo mushroom, which was quite spicy but not too overpowering. The mushrooms were really tender, just perfectly cooked.

A taco with a large piece of mock meat, red onions, and other garnishes

We agreed that the best taco was the BBQ short rib. The meat was exceptional! It had a nice crispy edge and more tender centre, and the flavours were fantastic. We were really impressed. I’d love this to be available in Prague!

I wish I’d had room to try the churros for dessert, but alas, I was full. Maybe we’ll try a return trip next year!

This branch is quite small, and was busy when we went on a Sunday lunchtime – it looked like there was a bit of a wait for tables, so I was glad we had a reservation. There weren’t too many tables indoors, but there was outdoor seating too in a bustling courtyard shared with other eateries. The staff were really friendly and service was fast. I heartily recommend this place, and hope someone brings exciting vegan Mexican food to Prague!

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Vegan in London: Okja

A takeaway box containing four pastries

Back in June, we made a quick weekend trip to London to see Beyoncé (who was predictably excellent) and fill out bellies with some good vegan food. I’m still always delighted by the prevalence of vegan options in the UK. There are great options in Prague, but you do have to go looking for them. In London, every eatery we walked past seemed to have something vegan – and there was even a fully vegan bakery just a ten minute walk from our hotel, so we headed there for a tasty breakfast one morning and got two pastries each.

A citrus pistachio swirl

Dr HH got a citrus pistachio swirl, which he loved. It was soft on the inside with good crispiness on the outside. There was plenty of good flavour from the cream. It was sticky, messy, and delicious.

A pesto and cheese bun topped with sesame seeds

He also got a pesto and cheese bun, which had good textures and a pleasing amount of cheese, but very little pesto. Perhaps he was just unlucky though.

A chocolate hazelnut swirl

I got a chocolate hazelnut swirl, which was as big a success as the pistachio one. There was plenty of tasty chocolate hazelnut spread, which was very decadent.

A morning bun

And I also tried an intriguingly-named morning bun. Like the others, it was crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. It was filled with delicious flavours of cinnamon, cardamom, and orange zest.

We also got a takeaway coffee and hot chocolate (very rich and delicious – a bit much on top of two pastries!) and these were also good.

There’s no seating inside so we ate everything on one of the handful of seats they have outside the shop, as the June weather was favourable. It would be a nice little cafe if there was space for indoor seating, but as it is, it’s an excellent bakery and I hope we’ll be back for more delicious pastries soon!

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Vegan in Switzerland: Bakery Bakery

A coffee cup with Bakery Bakery written on it

And saving the best for last, here’s an all vegan bakery! We visited branches in Zürich, Bern, and Basel – I believe there are branches in other cities as well, though regrettably not Geneva.

Bakery Bakery was possibly my favourite thing about my visit to Switzerland. The baked goods were excellent. The first branch we tried was in the train station at Zürich. It has no seating, so it’s takeaway only. As well as pastries, they also serve hot drinks and have a small selection of chocolate,  chilled meats, and cheeses for purchase. We only had eyes for the pastries though. Here’s what we tried.

Sausage roll: great pastry with nice seeds on top for texture, but the sausage was like a hot dog (not my preferred style, and quite different from a British sausage roll). There was loads of mustard in the pastry case alongside the sausage. It was an unpleasant surprise for mustard haters like Mother HH and me, but presumably fine if you like mustard.

A cheese tart

Cheese tart: this is one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. The pastry was rich, crisp, and crumbly. The filling was delicious, really creamy and cheesy. It felt like a really high quality vegan cheese. Absolutely divine. We are a lot of these in our week long trip!

A cinnamon snail

Cinnamon snail: the cinnamon flavour and filling were really nice. It was a bit nutty, and very sticky. The pastry was nice, but note that this is a snail that is more like a pastry than a bread, so it may or may not be home you like your snails.

A croissant with a small cookie baked in at each end

Crookie: this is a croissant with two cookies baked on top. It was not very visually appealing to me, but it tasted really great. The cookies on top looked pale, but were baked and had a bit of nice crisp. The croissant was filled as well with lots of chocolatey, cookie spread. It was extremely decadent and delicious, it certainly filled us up!

A cookie with lots of chocolate chips

Cookie: it was quite hefty, a really good size and thickness. It was absolutely packed with chocolate chips. It was quite a soft cookie, which is just how I like them.

I highly recommend this place to anyone passing through the city centre!

We also paid a visit to a branch in Bern, which was a nice cafe with seating available. Of course, we got more cheese tarts, but we also tried a few other items.

A thin rectangular pastry topped with seeds

Lauch speck strudel: it had too much leek and not enough meat for my liking, which was a bit of a shame and prevented it from being truly great. The pastry was really nice though.

A ring doughnut topped with chocolate

Donut choco nut: this was nice but not mind blowing, as the texture was a little bit chewy. The chocolate coating was the highlight.

A bready looking croissant with some chocolate drizzles

Chocoggigipfel: this croissant filled with chocolate was more bready than pastry. The chocolate cream inside was absolutely delicious, really rich and thick. It was very tasty.

The last branch we visited was in Basel train station. We ordered from the takeaway window, but there was an additional counter and seating for dining in. It had the same baked goods as the other branches, and we didn’t try anything different here.

Overall I wasn’t overwhelmed by the number and range of vegan options in Switzerland, so it’s quite surprising to me that they have this thriving chain of fully vegan bakeries. I wish this would catch on in other countries – especially if they had those cheese tarts!

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Vegan in Switzerland: Nooch

Four crispy sushi rolls topped with tuna

I’m rounding out my Switzerland posts with a couple of reviews from places that we visited in multiple cities, starting with Nooch. We visited branches in both Zürich and Basel. The menu was at least very similar in both branches, if not identical. It is an east Asian chain with quite a few clearly labelled vegan dishes. It was a very popular spot in both locations – you can easily book a table online if you wish.

A big bowl of carbonara topped with tofu cubes and mushroom

All three of us at one point ordered the mushroom miso carbonara – in fact, it was so nice that Mother HH and I ordered it twice. It didn’t really taste of miso, but it was nicely spiced (warm, not hot), creamy, and quite light, with plenty of sauce to keep everything coated. There were loads of tasty mushrooms and some fairly bland tofu, but everything else had flavour.

A bowl of rice and sticky chicken pieces

Dr HH also tried Beijing nights, which was a sweet and sour chicken dish. The chicken pieces had nice texture inside, but the sauce reduced the crispiness of the coating, which is always a risk.

Four crispy sushi rolls topped with tuna

He also got the tuna sushi, for the novelty factor – Prague is sorely lacking in exciting vegan sushi. There was plenty of tuna, which was flavoursome and seemed quite authentic (to someone with very little tuna experience). The crispiness of the roll was a little lacking, but it was still a tasty bite.

This chain was a solid option for us – the meals were tasty, service was pretty fast, and there were decent vegan options. If you’re traveling with meat eaters it might be a crowd-pleasing option too.

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Vegan in Zürich: Roots

Three waffles topped with salad, served with cheesy dressing and avocado

We spent quite a bit of time in Zürich, and were looking for nice central locations for vegan meals. A few different branches of Roots popped up on Happy Cow, and we went to Linthergehasse. It was extremely busy at lunchtime, we had a short wait for a table. There were a few breakfasty items on the menu and even though it was lunchtime, those were the dishes we fancied.

A large bowl of joghurt topped with granola, pomegranate seeds, and compote

Mother HH ordered the yogurt and granola, which came in a surprisingly large bowl. There was a lot of plain yogurt, along with a rhubarb raspberry compote that managed to be very well balanced, neither too sharp nor too sweet. The granola had lots of nuts and seeds and plenty of coconut. There was a good pop of pomegranate seeds too. Mother HH is a huge fan of yogurt and granola, and this exceeded her expectations.

Three waffles topped with salad, served with cheesy dressing and avocado

Dr HH and I both got the savoury waffles. Again the portion sizes were generous: we got three waffles each. They had a nice texture and came with various garnishes. The pickled cucumbers were pleasant, and I also loved the generous wedge of avocado. There was loads of salmon (which is difficult to spot in the photo) and it was very flavoursome, probably the best vegan salmon I’ve had in a restaurant. The five seed crunch added some lovely texture. The creamy cheese dressing was not to my personal taste (a bit too sweet), but Dr HH liked it. 

Because it was so popular, it wasn’t a totally restful atmosphere in which we wanted to linger. But for a quick and tasty lunch, it’s definitely recommended.

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Vegan in Geneva: Gives a Fork

Six pani puri with four pots of fillings

Finally, some really creative and exciting vegan options in Geneva! Gives a Fork was our top pick in the city. It’s all vegetarian, but the vegan options are plenty and are clearly labelled. There are small plates, tacos, and main dishes. We followed our server’s advice and got three small dishes and two taco dishes to share (one of the small dishes was a vegetarian one for non-vegan Mother HH, so I’m not reviewing it here). That made for a slightly light meal for us – if we’d come in hungry, we definitely would have needed one more plate.

A bowl of battered fried mushrooms topped with creamy sauce and garnishes

We loved the chan clan, which was crispy mushrooms with satay sauce. The coating was very crispy and thin, and the satay was really flavoursome. The mushrooms weren’t swimming in sauce, so they kept their crispiness and had a nice texture.

Six pani puri with four pots of fillings

The pop it like it’s hot was also really good. It is basically pani puri. All the components were nice and tasty, especially the potato and spicy chutney. It was a bit lacking in texture though, we thought that some potato chunks would have been better than a smooth puree.

Two tacos topped with mock meat, guacamole, and garnishes

We also got the rendang and harmony tacos. I’m not sure why there were two layers of taco! The rendang was really well seasoned and I loved the texture of the meat.

Two tacos topped with black beans, beer battered tofu, vegan labenh, and garnishes

And perhaps my favourite was the happy tacos. The beer battered tofu was excellent, the batter was so well seasoned. The other components were tasty too, it was a well balanced bite.

There is indoor and outdoor seating. Service was welcoming and fast. It was a popular spot, so you might want to book a table. I assume every vegan in Geneva is in here!

The meal perfectly fuelled us for another amazing/traumatic football match that night as we watched England take it down to the wire, about one minute from losing the semi-final, before a last minute goal and a cool Chloe Kelly penalty (is there any other kind?!) sent us sailing through to the final. Top food memories, top football memories!

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